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When Schuhplattler Meet Taxi Dancers – The Aufsteirern in Graz.

In Graz, the traditional “Aufsteirern” festival celebrated its 25th anniversary. From September 19 to 20, the city’s streets and alleys were literally flooded with dirndls and leather pants. Amid the crowds, you could hear loud cheers and the crack of the whips wielded by the Goaßlschnalzer.

Everyone talks about Oktoberfest, but there’s an event in Austria that’s far more authentic. At “Aufsteirern,” everything revolves around tradition, customs, and traditional costumes. Performances and shows take place on stages throughout Graz. People dance together, various music groups perform, and folk dance groups and traditional artisans showcase their skills to the audience.

When it comes to clicking your tongue, it's all about the hand movement.

It’s a cacophony of voices, music, and laughter. But all of that is drowned out by the crack of whips, which can be heard across the grounds. The whip-crackers have begun their show. The piercing sound is produced when their hemp or leather whip breaks the sound barrier with a practiced flick of the wrist. That’s because such a “crack” is generated by a speed of 1,200 km/h —and more.

In the past, this distinctive sound was used by wagon drivers. They used the snap to signal that they were on their way and that the road should be cleared. They still attract a lot of attention today when they perform at traditional festivals. This tradition is particularly common in the Alpine region. There are even competitions held there, in which a jury selects the best “Schnalzer.” 

Two men in traditional dress are holding long staffs. They are wearing hats with goat-hair tassels, green jackets over white shirts, and red ties. They are wearing leather pants and green socks. They are standing in a large square and smiling at the camera.
Two whip-crackers in traditional attire.
A devil violinist poses for a photo. He is wearing short leather pants, a white shirt, and a green vest. He is wearing a hat, looking directly into the camera, and holding his instrument in his right hand. He is standing on the street.
"Schumi" with his devil's fiddle

Devil's Violinists, G'stanzl Singers, and Taxi Dancers

But even among the regular musicians, there are some real eye-catchers. For example, some groups use an unusual instrument. The devil’s fiddle. This instrument is extremely versatile because you can really let your creativity run wild when building it. Various percussion instruments—such as bells, chimes, or laundry beaters—are attached to the round bow. The sounds are produced by stomping on the ground or by playing with a wooden spoon or similar object. Some fiddles also have strings, which makes the instrument even more versatile.

Although the dance and music groups already offered plenty for the audience, the organizers came up with a few extra treats. Visitors were able to try their hand at singing the “G’stanzl” and yodeling in workshops. A professional demonstrated how it’s done. Of course, the focus here is on having fun. Just like with the dancing mentioned earlier, which anyone could join in on. Dance enthusiasts without a partner could choose from various“dance partners”to help them bring their passion to life.

Young girls are dancing and spinning around in a circle. They are wearing traditional costumes. They are dancing in a large group on the streets of a big city.
The dance workshop was all about having fun
Three elderly people are sitting on chairs wearing blue aprons. They are looking down and seem focused. They are holding long, thin stalks in their hands. All three are wearing hats of different colors.
These artisans show visitors how basket weaving works.

More than 200,000 visitors are in attendance

“The Aufsteirn festival is first and foremost about preserving customs and traditions,” explains an elderly local woman. Of course, there are people here in traditional dress for whom “seeing and being seen” matters more than their commitment to tradition. Nevertheless, this festival is even more authentic than Oktoberfest. At the world’s largest folk festival, you can even find replica leather pants made of polyester for sale right at the entrance. 

Meanwhile, the “Aufsteirern” festival has also grown to enormous proportions. This year, the festival drew over 240,000 visitors. The audience comes from both neighboring states and other countries. To ensure that guests don’t miss a thing, an app has even been developed. There, you can find the schedule for each stage and put together a daily itinerary featuring your favorites.

What does the position of the bow on a dirndl say about the woman wearing it?

On the right is a woman in a dirndl dress with long, dark hair, a white dirndl blouse, and a green dirndl with a red apron. The blouse has short sleeves. Next to her is a man with a light mustache and dark hair. He is wearing a beige jacket, an orange-striped shirt underneath, and brown pants. He is carrying a backpack. Both are standing in a bustling square and smiling at the camera.
  • The bow is on the left: The wearer is single
  • The bow is on the right: The woman is in a relationship or married
  • The bow is centered: The wearer is a Virgo, or things are complicated
  • The bow is in the back: The woman is a widow or works as a waitress

You can find more about Austria in my Etsy store. Be sure to check it out: 

I also give online presentations from time to time on traditions, travel, and other cultures. You can find the latest dates on my Eventim event page.

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Sources:

My Own Experiences at Aufsteirern 2026 (September 20, 2026)

Press Release from the Organizer

Statements from interviewees on site

“Aufsteirern” – Newspaper and App

 

Photos: Ingrid Müller

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