With a population of around 500,000, the Scottish city is pretty tranquil. I already had this impression on my first visit last year. The staff in the stores take the time to have a little chat and a "Good morning" is always followed by a cheerful "Hey yáll" (yes, the Scottish accent is a thing in itself). It was precisely because Edinburgh has this small-town charm that I didn't want to miss out on the Beltane Festival. And I wasn't the only one.
Beltane means something like "bright fire". This millennia-old Celtic ritual is intended to drive away winter and welcome summer. Fire plays a central role in this. After all, it is regarded by many peoples as a tool of purification and healing. The roots of Beltane lie in the Iron Age, more than 2800 years ago. It is of course almost impossible to say how it happened back then, but in more recent history it was like this: first the fires in the family ovens were extinguished and then a large one was made in the center of the village. This communal fire was used to light the ovens again. This ritual was a beautiful symbol of solidarity. Beltane also stands for the reawakening of nature and is known as a fertility festival.
A modernized version takes place on Calton Hill, organized by the Beltane Fire Society. The hill on the edge of the city center, which is more than 100 meters high, is very popular with tourists. After all, several sights stand side by side here. The old observatory, a memorial to the great poet Robert Burns and something you would probably expect to find in Athens: theNational Monument. It consists of several huge columns, which earned the building the nickname "Acropolis". And Edinburgh the name "Athens of the North".
The opening ceremony will take place at this very building. But more on that later. While waiting patiently in line for the event, you inevitably strike up a conversation with other visitors. A mother-daughter team from Chicago tells me that they found out about this festival via Instagram. They had already attended several such festivals in the USA and wanted to see what it was like in Europe. Beltane is celebrated all over the world, but each celebration has its own touch.
The first surprise awaits right after the entrance area: a cordoned-off circular area with an artificial tree in the middle. Visitors queue patiently for up to 15 minutes to tie a piece of fabric to the tree. Two performers beat rhythmically on drums. When I ask, they explain that this is a "wishing tree". "People transfer their dreams and wishes onto the fabric and then tie it to the tree," explains performer Alexa Seagrave. The tree is burned at the end of the festival and all the wishes are released into the world. So that they all come true. What a beautiful thought.
Here we go.
Shortly after sunset, the time had come: the performers got into position, the torches were lit and the drums started with a dramatic BUMM BUMM BUMM. To loud cheers from the audience, Beltane 2025 is opened with the lighting of various symbols.
Even though it was my first Beltane, you soon get the hang of it. Ideally, you should follow the performers' lead and then you won't miss any of the numerous performances. Admittedly, some of them take a bit of getting used to, let's say. Probably the most spectacular group for me were the fire jugglers. Some throw the torches alone, others work with a partner. It's always hot and dangerous. The really tough ones even do sword fights with burning blades. It's not a children's birthday party, it's a real thing.
The appearance of the "Reds" definitely falls into the "somewhat unique" category. Nomen est omen, yes, they are red. From top to bottom - and almost naked. But the bright red underwear doesn't conceal much. If you're wondering what they're doing: To irritate the audience. Either by shouting at the audience or by shouting at each other. This performance could very well have been inspired by Louis de Funés. The cat actors are no less special. They sneak around between the audience (on all fours!) and act like real velvet paws. Sometimes they let themselves be stroked, sometimes they hiss or even try to scratch.
So while I try to avoid stones and roots with the help of the flashlight I brought with me as I follow the train, I notice several older 60+ visitors. Despite the strenuous climb up Calton Hill, some more mature people have also gathered here. The festival isn't just mixed in terms of age. On the hill, pierced and tattooed people share the space with people wearing crosses and traditional kilts. Acceptance and not just tolerance is the motto here and it works very well.
Shortly before midnight, we are approaching the climax in Edinburgh. A small, square stage is set up opposite the "Acropolis". The procession is led by Queen May with the "blues", who can almost be described as her bodyguards. This is followed by many drummers, the "Reds", the Green Man and a number of foxes together with other performers. A showdown ensues in front of the National Monument: Queen May and the Green Man share the stage and their performance is a little reminiscent of "Harry and Sally": they don't seem to be able to be with each other, but certainly not without each other. Finally, the time has come: a large fireball lights up the stage, indicating that Queen May and the Green Man have come to an agreement (and united) and the summer can finally begin.
Sources and credits:
Conversation with actors on 30.04.2025 in Edinburgh
The photos show from left to right:
Sylvia Edwards, Alexa Seagrave / Shannon Elizabeth McGregor / Erik Achrén, Maria Achrén, D and Lucy Ketchum / Teodora Seredan, Claudia Stanescu / Barry Neeson / Léna, Elena and Rosemarie
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