Wooden towers up to nine meters tall are ablaze—and the fire department stands by doing nothing. A scandal!? No. An age-old Easter tradition in Salzburg. Every year at Easter, numerous wooden structures go up in flames here.
The Lungau region greets me with a light drizzle when I arrive on Holy Saturday afternoon. Nevertheless, I already get a small taste of the spectacle to come: clouds of smoke are already rising in several parts of the Salzburg region.The first Easter bonfires are already burning.
There is said to be a particularly spectacular structure in Höf, near St. Michael im Pongau. When we arrive in the late afternoon, a small party tent is already set up and a fire pit is already in use. Several men wearing felt hats are celebrating the completion of their structure: a huge tower topped with a cross stands on a slight hill.
Months of work for one night
The six friends have made it their mission to keep the traditions of their region alive. Over the course of several months, they worked hard every weekend to finish the wooden tower in time for Easter weekend.
To do this, they obtained numerous spruce logs from a nearby sawmill and stacked these pieces, each weighing about 80 kilograms, into a tower. They filled the hollow interior with brushwood and placed a cross on top to finish it off. And all this work will have turned to ashes within a few hours.
The origins of the tradition
“It’s an old tradition that dates back to the time of Maria Theresa,” a member of the “Brauchtumsgruppe Höf” explains to me. Back then, the people of Lungau used a ruse to prevent the invading French from taking over their territory. They simply erected wooden towers around the village and set them on fire. “So the French thought they had already conquered the area and withdrew,” he smiles.
By now, the first spectators have already gathered—time to light the Easter bonfire’s little brother. For standing next to the main attraction is a second tower, about three meters tall. Though this structure looks rather puny in comparison, it’s already giving off intense heat. Just imagine what it will be like when the big one is set ablaze!
The darker it gets, the more beautiful the fire becomes. The sparks rise up toward the stars and then seem to rain down. By now, the clouds have mostly cleared, so the weather is perfect for this Easter tradition. Around 9:30, the moment has finally arrived.
The fire is coming from the parish church
A torch attached to a long pole is used to light the fire from the village church nearby. At first, the wooden giant is a bit reluctant, but after a few minutes it’s blazing. Anyone who thinks the tower’s builders are done for the day is mistaken.
The men, some of whom are even members of the volunteer fire department, now face a delicate task. Using a long pole, they maneuver the logs lying on top toward the center of the tower. This prevents them from falling uncontrollably and causing the fire to spread further than necessary. It’s hard work. Not only is it incredibly hot so close to the fire, but it’s also difficult to move the pole—which is several meters long—in a controlled manner.
There is a very friendly atmosphere
The tower burns for several hours. Logs are constantly being pushed into the fire. Spectators from the town and a few tourists stand in awe before the massive structure. The DJ hired for the occasion keeps the mood lively, and a beer or two is opened. There’s even a small bonfire where sausages are grilled on sticks, creating a very friendly, family-like atmosphere.
After a few hours, the tower has burned down, but the huge bed of embers will remain hot for several more days. Even though the tower in Höf was probably one of the largest in the region, the other communities in the Lungau were just as active. An Easter bonfire blazed in nearly every village. It’s wonderful to see customs and old traditions being kept alive in such a vibrant way.
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Sources:
Höf Folk Customs Association
Personal experience from April 4, 2026, in St. Michael im Lungau (Salzburg)
Photo credits
Ingrid Müller
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