If, like me, you report on global culture and events, then of course you can't neglect your own. That's why my journey took me to beautiful Carinthia. In the municipality of Weitersfeld, people on horseback make sure that the plague doesn't come back to the village. They also compete for the favor of a virgin.
After almost 5 hours of driving through serpentines, grumbling about the rainy weather and wondering whether I would find a petrol station in time, it finally lay before me in all its glory: the market town of Weitensfeld. The welcome couldn't have been better, after all, the traditional band played for my arrival. That was just a coincidence, but it was still nice.
Shortly afterwards, the first item on the program for Whitsunday was already on the agenda: The erection of the market freyung. To all those who are raising their eyebrows right now: I didn't know this either. It's a wooden pole to which an arm with a sword is attached. There is also a different coat of arms on each side: one from the emperor, one from the market town. The erection symbolizes the return to old, medieval law. It is also accompanied by a transfer of power: the duties of the mayor are now carried out by the market judge. At least for the duration of the celebrations.
The background to the custom.
Market judge Erich Foditsch has been doing this job for 17 years. In a conversation, he told me some historical details: The tradition has its origins in the 16th century. At that time, there was a plague in Austria and Weitensfeld and the surrounding area were particularly hard hit by the "Black Death". Only four people survived. One damsel and three young lads. It came as it had to: all three wanted to end up with the maiden. But she wasn't that easy: The young lady from Thurn Castle had one condition: Only the fittest would be considered for her. So they organized a race. And this race for the hand of the only remaining woman is the origin of Kranzelreitens.
On Whit Sunday, the Zweinitz traditional band makes its grand entrance. Together with the Kranzelreiters, they first go to the neighboring village. G'stanzln are sung there (you could also call them affectionate dialect songs) and the surrounding villages are officially invited to the Kranzelreiten. On their return, short songs about the locals are performed on site. The songs are about funny or embarrassing incidents that have happened during the year.
A short piece of music is always played in between. According to bandleader Reinhold Kraßnitzer, this is "a fun game" - which is perhaps also due to a certain extent to the sometimes high-percentage entertainment provided by those being sung to. And they are allowed to do so, after all they play around 500 times between the G'stanzeln.
The main event takes place on Whit Monday.
The Kranzelreiten on Whit Monday is not for late risers. At eight o'clock sharp, you are mercilessly torn from your dreams by brass band music. They make their way through the village and let the locals know: "Today is the big day! Rise and shine!". The morning is dominated by the festive church service, speeches by the market judge and all the vendors trying to sell T-shirts, belts and Vorarlberger Bergkaas to the almost 5,000 tourists. The otherwise tranquil village of 2,000 souls is packed.
The market square is filling up, the firefighters are busy keeping the curious visitors behind the barrier and the market judge stylishly unrolls his documents. In his black robe and wide-brimmed hat, he reads out the orders for the next two hours. In the meantime, the sun has fought its way through the dark clouds. The traditional music band marches along Marktstraße, the local politicians and other guests of honor take their seats on the grandstand and the Kranzel riders get into position. After a short "G'stanzlsingen" to the regional politicians, the starting signal is given for the riders.
They gallop up and down the whole square three times. This is supposed to symbolically drive away the plague that had brought the community to the brink of extinction a good 500 years earlier. According to stories, the custom was once skipped. The following night, the plague victims got out of their graves and ransacked the entire market square with their horses. It has never stopped since. According to the market judge, it was even held in times of coronavirus. However, as Foditsch emphasizes, under strict safety regulations and on a small scale.
After riding, we go for a run.
After the "work" is done, the band picks up the runners from the municipal building. The three boys, aged between 18 and 23, are dressed all in white and wear a red sash. Two of them rely on a little support: they have lucky charms with them. I wonder if the little pig, the cross bracelet or simply self-confidence will work best?
Before we find out, the route has to be prepared for the race. This is done by three riders. They each represent a district of the market town: Zweinitz, Altenmarkt and Zammelsberg. After the brisk Scharfritt (and it really was brisk!), the runners take their position at the starting line. And they sprint off on command. After a relatively short distance, one of the three has already built up a lead. After a few sweat-inducing minutes and the completion of a 300-metre course, it is clear: the winner is 18-year-old Gotthard Simon Bacher. His cross bracelet on his ankle must have worked.
He is now given the honor of kissing the virgin. The statue of the young woman stands on the lower market square, where the prize-giving ceremony also takes place. The winner rides on the fastest horse of the Scharfritt towards the monument. To his left and right, his opponents lead the animal. Grinning happily, the BORG graduate is celebrated by the crowd.
Even if the ladder is already leaning against the statue, there are still a few prizes to be awarded first. These hang from the "plague pole" and are cut down and presented by the guests of honor. These include the myrtle wreath that is placed on the statue before the kiss. But practical items such as socks or a silk scarf also change hands. The photographers get into position, because now the big moment has arrived.
Wreath riding has been practiced for almost 460 years.
The custom has a long history: it has been practiced regularly since 1567. In 2016, UNESCO also took notice and declared it an "intangible world cultural heritage". A lot of logistics are required to ensure that everything runs like clockwork despite the rush of visitors. After all, the guests have to sleep somewhere, park their cars and they also want to treat themselves to a snack from time to time. "The preparations for the custom take just under a year," explains Head of Office Christian Lappacher. Estimating how many people will come is a particular challenge. "There were around 9,000 tourists at the anniversary traditional costume ride in 2022," he explains with pride in his voice. What was so special about this year? Every 25 years, the winner of the race gets to kiss a woman made of flesh and blood. Three years ago, it was 16-year-old Marie-Sophie Tatschl.
But even if Bacher "only" has to make do with a stone woman, he is happy. He climbs up the ladder to shouts of joy. In one hand he holds the myrtle wreath that he places on the figure. He leans over the front - the ladder wobbles a little - but holds on. He gives the statue a peck on the cheek, but the crowd wants more. They cheer him on, clap and cheer: now he kisses the statue on the lips. The audience is satisfied. The young man climbs down from the ladder and is immediately surrounded by photographers. He patiently takes various photo poses with his maid-of-honor and answers questions. He also reveals that he will be back next year: Albeit on horseback. He will follow in his father's footsteps and, as a wreath rider, will help to keep the plague away from the community.
The day ends with a 3-minute "Gurktal Waltz", which is first danced by the runners and their ladies of honor. After a short time, the guests of honor join them and soon the square around the stone maiden is lined with dancing people. With this sight, I leave the picturesque village and let the village community and visitors celebrate.
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Sources
Newsletter of the market town of Weitensfeld im Gurktal May 2025/No. 2
Personal discussions/interviews with market judge Prof. Erich Foditsch,
Head of office Christian Lattacher,
Simon Gotthard Bacher, 18,
Lukas Germann, 23
Tobias Trampitsch, 18
and bandmaster Reinhold Kraßnitzer
Experience on site on June 08 + 09, 2025
Photo credits: Ingrid Müller
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