Every year on December 27, the city of Bacău is the scene of an unusual spectacle. Hundreds of participants dressed as bears parade through the Romanian town. They chase evil out of the small town to the beat of drums.
Boom-boom-boom. You can hear the rhythmic drumming from far away. The wind blows relentlessly with biting cold on this Saturday morning in December. But the main characters don't mind; they are wrapped in thick bear skins and celebrating the "Ursul Festival."
The beginnings of the tradition
According to local resident Ionut Alexandru Muraru, an early version of this tradition has existed for around 2,000 years. Back then, the men set out to prove their strength and masculinity to their clan. On the last day of the year, they would present their community with the pelt of a bear they had killed with their own hands as proof of this. This ensured their social advancement and prestige within the group.
At the turn of the 20th century, the first bear dances finally took place in the Romanian town of Dărmănești. On New Year's Eve, men went from house to house with real animals. There, the bears, which were chained up, "danced" with the help of hot coals. The performance of the mostly young animals was supposed to bring good luck to the villagers, explains active bear dancer Cosmina Neamtu from the village of Dofteana.
The festival is loved by young and old alike.
At the modern Ursul Festival , live bears are no longer used. The residents of Bacău and the surrounding villages dress up together dressed in bear skins through the streets. Each town has at least one bear group, which can sometimes include as many as 60 people. The participants move their magnificent costumes to the rhythm of drums covered with goatskin. The bear festival is a living tradition in Romania. And it has been practiced for several generations.
"My son has been a bear since he was three years old," one of the participants tells me proudly. Although you might assume so, it's not just men who take part. Many women, some of them petite, have been slipping into costumes weighing up to 40 kilograms for years. Most of these bear skins are real. With the exception of the artificial children's "bears," they come from animals hunted by hunters, which are then tailored into costumes by special taxidermists. Even the red pom-poms, which are supposed to bring good luck, are handmade.
"A fur like this can easily cost €1,500," Alexandra tells me. She has been a regular at the festival for five years. Due to the cost, there is also the option of renting the costume for the festival. The bearskin is sometimes passed down through generations, as it lasts for around 30 years, provided it is regularly oiled and preserved with special products.
Besides bears, there are many other characters.
A somewhat unusual-looking animal also walks in the parade. The goat consists of colorful paper streamers and a long neck with a movable head at the end. The performer playing this traditional character repeatedly opens and closes the mouth while moving it artfully to the music. The goat is actually only used at the turn of the year. It goes from door to door bringing good luck for the new year. Since everyone can always use a little luck, it also takes part in the bear parade.
The street in Bacău is lined with spectators. In the middle of the crowd, Italian Luca is watching the parade with his three-year-old son. The 41-year-old generally loves the customs in this country. But his favorite festival is definitely the Bear Festival, says the popular YouTuber. Looking at the events, that's no surprise. Traditional events rarely offer so much variety. On the large stage, slightly away from the street, traditional dancers are now performing the Călușarii, the "horseman's dance." They are soon replaced by performers with large bells attached to their clothing.
While these performances are taking place on stage, the parade of bears continues through the city center. Also participating are colorful costumes with many sewn-on mirrors and others with impressive headdresses. As different as the costumes may be, they all serve the same purpose: to scare away evil spirits and bring luck to spectators and participants for the coming year.
After about five hours, the festival in Bacău draws to a close. For the bear performers, it's now on to the next village. Three more surrounding villages are still on the agenda for the day, reveals Katalin, one of the participants. The bears will be parading through the streets until 11 p.m. Over the next few days, they will continue through the neighboring villages. After all, evil must be driven out of the entire Moldavia region. Yes, the bears take their job seriously—and are loved by the entire population for it.
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References:
Conversations with spectators and performers at the Bear Dance Festival in Bacău, December 27, 2025
https://romania-photo-tours.com/the-bear-dance-festival-in-romania/
"Romania's Bear Dancers" – documentary by MDR (December 28, 2024)
Special thanks to Ms. Roxana Georgiana, who acted as translator.
Photos and videos: Ingrid Müller
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