Horse-drawn carriages: Viennese culture or animal cruelty?

For many people, horse-drawn carriages are as much a part of Vienna as St. Stephen's Cathedral and the "Eitrige mit Sechszehnerblech" (cheese krainer with Ottakringer beer). But if you listen to various animal welfare groups, the question arises: is riding in a horse-drawn carriage a nice tradition or are you perhaps even supporting cruelty to animals?

Fiakers have been around in Vienna since 1693 and can be found at several locations. You can get on at Stephansplatz, but also at Michaelerplatz and Albertinaplatz. The horse-drawn carriages are also available for a ride at Petersplatz and the Burgtheater. The cost of a ride varies depending on the duration and provider. They are currently between 60 and 160 euros per carriage.

The price reflects the effort that goes into a carriage ride. Background knowledge of the sights on the route, keeping a logbook, keeping a cool head on the road despite angry drivers and adhering to all the rules. And there are many of them. For example, there is a fine of 80 euros if a hackney carriage driver is on the road without the typical black bowler hat. After all, it is also about conveying a certain image.

The most important thing is that both the horses and the carriage are in perfect condition. That's why the first thing in the morning is to take the horses to the stables. They undergo an initial check-up and are then made "ready for the city". The carriage drivers do not always have to deal with the same horses. The evening before, the drivers find out which animals they will be working with the next day. This allows them to find the best route from the stables to the parking area in advance. Because "every horse is different and is afraid of something different," explains 22-year-old Alex. The career changer has switched from being a restaurant specialist to becoming a horse rider. "I got into it through a friend. The stress of waiting tables was just too much," says Alex. After growing up with horses, he wanted to give it a try.

You need a Fiaker driver's license.

But if you think you can just take a seat on the coach, you're wrong. A hackney carriage driver has to know a lot about horses and carriages, the tradition of the profession and about Vienna. This is tested in theoretical and practical examinations. Only when you have passed these tests are you allowed to work as a horse-drawn carriage driver.

The everyday life of a Viennese Fiaker starts relatively relaxed. They are not allowed to drive at all before eleven o'clock in the morning. Otherwise they will be fined 400 euros, unless it is a pre-ordered ride. After the horses and carriage have been checked in the stables, they drive to the parking area at a distance and on different routes. The horse-drawn carriages don't want to be an even bigger obstacle to traffic than they already are because of their leisurely pace.

While the horse-drawn carriage is on the road, some of the hackney carriages say they are repeatedly abused. Alex remembers many incidents. "You're a sh*thole, you're an animal abuser and the like. You hear that a lot. And not just from passers-by, even a policeman has thrown insults at me."

Will marriage proposals soon be made in electric carriages in Vienna?

The Austrian Animal Welfare Association (ÖTV) criticizes horse-drawn carriages in a press release. "Horses are flight animals that are constantly stressed and flooded with stimuli despite having blinkers on," it says. It points out that summers are getting hotter all the time. Pulling the heavy carriages over the cobblestones is also torture for the animals.

The organization has launched a petition for a switch to electric carriages. "This would not only help the animals, but also the residents of the city of Vienna," says ÖTV, summarizing the benefits of electrically powered vehicles. They are environmentally friendly, reduce noise pollution and the smelly horse droppings, especially in summer, would also be eliminated.

Opinions are divided on the environmental friendliness of battery-powered electric carriages (in comparison to horses). The noise pollution of the hackney carriage alternative is certainly minimal. But was the noise of hooves ever a big issue in Vienna? The argument with the smelly horse legacies is outdated. Fiaker horses have had to wear a pooh bag (colloquially: a horse diaper) since 2004. If a horse-drawn carriage driver does not comply, he must expect a fine of 3,500 euros.

Fiaker against animal welfare association

While it is usually animal welfare association versus horse-drawn carriage driver, in May 2023 it was the other way around. The Verein gegen Tierfabriken, also known as VTG, was sued by the horse-drawn carriage company Paul. The VTG was in court after claiming that "Fiaker horses collapse time and again due to the heat" in Vienna. Horses did indeed collapse, but it was proven not to be due to the heat. The animals were suffering from other illnesses. The court therefore ruled that not only should this allegation not be made, but that it should also be retracted as untrue. It referred to statements made by the Vienna Veterinary Office.

According to carriage driver Paul, every stall is equipped with food and water. "The horses are kept in the shade during the hottest part of the day and are sprayed with water to cool them down." According to the law, horses have not been allowed to be used in the city center above 35 degrees since 2016. In addition, unannounced checks have been carried out in the stables and stabling areas since 2011.

An animal rights activist as a hackney carriage driver

Hermann has been on the road as a hackney carriage driver for five years. He has had an unusual "career". He was employed in Vösendorf for 15 years - in an animal shelter. "Because of the tiresome issue that it [hackney carriage driving] is cruelty to animals and the animals don't get any water, I observed the whole thing more closely. And that's how I got involved," says the 58-year-old.

He has his own theory as to why the animal rights activists are making such a fuss about horse-drawn carriages. "The animal welfare organization, whose name I won't mention now, earn a lot of money from us," says the Vienna-born man indignantly, "That's their business model. They come here to demonstrate and set up a donation box right away."

Hermann, who is vehemently opposed to the transportation of livestock, slatted floors and the slaughter (bleeding) of animals, sees the horse as a working animal. He "would like to go about his job in peace, it will be so strictly controlled anyway", he concludes.

The strict conditions are entirely justified. Because even if some of the arguments put forward by animal rights activists are somewhat flawed, the stress factor for the horses cannot be glossed over. In the end, everyone has to decide for themselves whether driving a horse-drawn carriage is part of Viennese culture or whether it is simply exploiting the animals.

Did you know?

Fiaker is the name for both the carriage and the driver.
In the high season, horse-drawn carriages work from 11 am to 10 pm.
Some hackney carriage companies operate all year round.
Horse-drawn carriages receive a regular wage, no matter how many journeys they make.
In the event of bad behavior, the hackney carriage driver is free to expel people from their vehicle. Or to refuse them a ride.
In 1987, the first woman took her place at the coachman's seat. Since then, Sisi Ringl has motivated many women to follow in her footsteps.
To become a horse-drawn carriage driver, you have to pass exams from the Austrian Equestrian Sports Association (bronze driving badge) and the Chamber of Commerce (horse-drawn carriage driver's license).
By law, horse-drawn carriages have a four-day week.